Starting plants by seed is inexpensive

By now garden aficionados have been hovering over seed displays. Others have ordered from catalogues.

Often online sites have large vivid photographs with growing information that information is invaluable.

New plants, old favourites, heirlooms, rare or endangered varieties of flowers, vegetables, fruits and herbs can be difficult to locate.  Starting seeds indoors is an easy way to keeping gardens fresh and forever changing.

Seeds allow gardeners to experience the complete growing cycle.

Often certain varieties have a long growing season and require a head start to germinate and grow into strong seedlings. Packets of seed usually state the number of frost free growing days until the plant is grown or produced a mature vegetable. In horticulture, the growing season is the period plants actively grow. That is usually determined by climate and elevation. Location, temperature, daylight hours and rainfall are all critical environmental factors to consider.

Here, a growing season is the days between the last and the first frost. Traditionally, May 24 is a safe date for outdoor planting.

Starting seeds in plastic cells is a reliable method. Any container with drainage will do as long as it holds 5 to 7.5cm (2 to 3 inches) of growing soil. Soggy roots mean certain problems for seedlings. Drainage holes are essential.

Using sterilized potting soil prevents problems. Seed packets have invaluable information on planting. Always read the instructions as many varieties have specific requirements. Start by moistening the soil. As a rule of thumb, seeds should be sown to a depth of twice its size.

Humidity encourages germination. Clear plastic domed boxes, greenhouse starter kits or a clear plastic covering traps moisture and prevents evaporation. Temperature will affect the rate of germination. Seeds will germinate faster with a source of bottom heat.

Once germination has taken place, plants must be moved to a bright location.

Fluorescent lights work well but a sunny south or west window is a good choice. Make sure sunlight is not direct or it will damage new seedlings.

Filtering or moving seed trays in and out of sunlight will prevent sunburn.

Many seedlings will be affected by damping off. It is a fatal condition where a seemingly healthy seedling suddenly dies because of a fungus attack – but it is easily preventable.

It’s far easier to prevent damping off than to cure it.  Crowding and over watering are the main causes. Let the soil and seedlings dry out after watering. Pour off any excess water.

Seedlings need space to grow. If they are crowded they won’t dry quickly enough and this will encourage fungus spores to grow.

Simply eliminate smaller and weaker plants by clipping them using a pair of scissors. This will avoid uprooting stronger plants.

About two weeks before transplanting, let seedlings become adjusted to outdoor conditions.Placing them outside in a sunny location for a few hours each day will harden them to the elements resulting in stronger plants.

Plants that have become “leggy” should be planted deeply and not left to dangle in the wind.

Ron Stevenson is a member of the Fergus Horticultural Society

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